For most of the twentieth century, architecture has learned to read cities through roads. Street hierarchies define urban plans, intersections organize movement, and buildings are understood by the façades they present to sidewalks. Roads appear so fundamental to urban life that they are often mistaken for a universal condition. Across much of Southeast Asia, cities developed according to an entirely different spatial logic. Long before automobiles reordered urban landscapes, rivers served as streets, marketplaces, civic spaces, and public infrastructure. Movement occurred primarily by boat, commerce unfolded along waterfronts, and architecture addressed water rather than asphalt. Reading these cities through their waterways changes how architecture itself is understood. Infrastructure, in this case, is not the road but the river.
Across the region, navigable rivers determined where settlements emerged and how they expanded. They connected inland agricultural landscapes to maritime trade routes, enabling goods, people, and ideas to circulate across remarkable distances centuries before modern transport networks existed. Waterways functioned as the primary framework around which urban life was organized. The historic trading port of Hội An illustrates this relationship with exceptional clarity. Merchant houses, warehouses, assembly halls, and marketplaces developed directly along the Thu Bồn River, where boats provided immediate access to regional and international trade. Waterfront property derived its value from direct access to navigation, trade, and exchange. As documented by UNESCO, the city’s remarkably intact urban fabric still reflects a period when river access, rather than street frontage, established the hierarchy of urban space.
When movement occurs primarily by water, architecture evolves differently. In road-based cities, buildings typically orient themselves toward streets where entrances, shopfronts, and public life concentrate. River cities invert this relationship. Boats replace pedestrians as the principal users of public space, docks substitute for sidewalks, and waterfront edges become the city’s active frontage. Thresholds are designed for arrival from water, while land often functions as secondary access. The consequences become visible in the architecture itself. The relationship between building and infrastructure becomes immediate, dissolving the clear distinction that roads later imposed between movement and architecture.
Related Article
Shifting Sediments: Rivers as an Architectural and Cultural Catalyst
Nowhere is this urban logic more evident than in Bangkok, where an extensive network of khlongs, or canals, once earned the city its description as the “Venice of the East.” Long before road expansion transformed Bangkok’s metropolitan structure, canals functioned as the city’s principal circulation system. Houses opened directly onto waterways, temples positioned ceremonial entrances toward canals, and floating markets occupied strategic intersections where water traffic converged. The city’s architecture treated canals as public space. The canal edge simultaneously became a street, marketplace, and neighborhood gathering place. Urban historian Marc Askew has shown that this morphology produced a city whose spatial organization was inseparable from its waterways, showing how infrastructure and architecture evolved together.
Palembang followed a comparable urban logic, revealing that river urbanism was a shared urban condition. Along the Musi River, the neighborhoods of Palembang developed around a landscape where water remained the primary means of everyday movement. Timber houses stood on stilts or floated directly on the river, accommodating seasonal fluctuations while maintaining continuous access to transport. Commercial exchange unfolded from jetties extending into the water, and domestic life remained closely tied to the river’s rhythms. Here, architecture did not resist the dynamic nature of waterways but incorporated it into construction methods, settlement patterns, and daily routines. The resulting urban form shows how environmental conditions, materials, and infrastructure were approached as one architectural problem.
The dominance of river urbanism began to shift during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries as colonial administrations, and later national governments, invested heavily in road infrastructure. Roads reorganized the hierarchy of the city itself. New commercial districts emerged along streets instead of waterways, bridges redirected movement away from boats, and canals increasingly became obstacles to traffic rather than the infrastructure supporting it. In Bangkok, numerous canals were gradually filled to accommodate expanding road networks, while urban investment concentrated on automobile mobility. Buildings that had once presented active public fronts toward the water slowly turned their backs on it, transforming waterfronts from civic centers into service corridors or residual spaces. The city did not abandon its rivers overnight; the buildings increasingly addressed roads instead of water.
In historic river cities, commerce, transportation, religious processions, and everyday encounters unfolded within the same shared space. The waterfront was not a specialized recreational landscape but an extension of ordinary urban life. As roads assumed this civic role, water increasingly became something cities crossed rather than occupied. In Hội An, changing maritime trade routes and the gradual silting of the river diminished the port’s international significance. Its preserved urban fabric continues to reveal an earlier spatial order in which architecture addressed water as the city’s primary public realm. These historic environments still make this earlier urban order legible. Infrastructure reorganizes commerce, public life, and architecture simultaneously.
Today, many Southeast Asian cities are once again reconsidering their relationship with water, although under very different circumstances. Rising sea levels, increased flooding, and climate adaptation have encouraged renewed interest in blue-green infrastructure, flood-resilient urbanism, and water-sensitive planning. Institutions such as UN-Habitat, the World Resources Institute, and Deltares increasingly advocate for urban strategies that integrate waterways into everyday infrastructure rather than isolating them behind engineered barriers. Although driven by contemporary environmental pressures, these strategies echo spatial principles long embedded within the region’s river cities.
Historic river urbanism cannot simply be reproduced. It emerged from particular environmental, economic, and political conditions that cannot be replicated. It reminds us that roads are only one possible framework, and that architecture is always shaped by the systems through which people move. When movement occurs on water, buildings, public space, commerce, and civic identity evolve according to different priorities. Infrastructure shapes how cities are inhabited, remembered, and understood.
Southeast Asia’s river cities suggest that infrastructure has never been neutral. Every transportation network privileges certain relationships while diminishing others. Roads produced the urban forms that define much of contemporary architectural thinking, however they are not the only model through which cities have flourished. Along the rivers of Bangkok, Hội An, and Palembang, another urban tradition emerged. It is one where architecture faced water, public life unfolded at the shoreline, and movement itself shaped the city. In an era of climatic uncertainty, these waterways are valuable less as historical curiosities than as evidence that cities have long been organized through infrastructures very different from the ones contemporary practice often assumes.
This article is part of the ArchDaily Topic: Architectures of Movement: Land, Borders, and the Politics of Belonging. Every month we explore a topic in-depth through articles, interviews, news, and architecture projects. We invite you to learn more about our ArchDaily Topics. And, as always, at ArchDaily we welcome the contributions of our readers; if you want to submit an article or project, contact us.
